In the Camera's Eye
A look at child modeling in the Bay Area
By Millicent Skiles
You see them in your favorite children’s catalogs: bright, happy faces playing on kid-size furniture, puzzling over a fun toy and wearing the latest fashions. Just like their adult counterparts, child models are used to sell everything from toothpaste to vacations to ridiculously priced nursery gear.
Where do they come from? Chances are, right here in the Bay Area.
For those curious about child modeling, hesitations abound. Will I be scammed out of thousands of dollars? Will it teach my child that only the beautiful survive? Will they be devastated by the inevitable rejection they’ll face?
In most cases, the answer is no – as long as you do your homework and instill in your children the virtue that inner beauty lasts longer than a cute face.
For parents who’ve been there, done that, child modeling is an exciting opportunity to expose their kids to something new. Plus, the fact that we’re not in Hollywood helps remove some of pressure and stress one normally associates with child actors.
“If you have a child who loves people, it’s a great environment,” says Oakland mom Dana Lewenthal, who has two children, ages 2 and 4, who model. “If your child gets the shoot and gets in print, it’s kind of fun to have those clippings to share with friends and family.”
Granted, child modeling isn’t for everyone, but for those who are interested, you shouldn’t have to shell out a dime to get started.
“Avoid anybody who asks you for money up front,” counsels Lewenthal, an actor for 17 years. “Anybody who makes you do a little more work than you feel you should be doing, just avoid.”
Waiting to be discovered
Most agencies require only informal digital snapshots to determine whether a child has potential to be a model. Infants and toddlers change too much in a short amount of time to warrant the further expense of studio photography sessions. Professional headshots become more necessary after a child turns 3, and those range from $300 to $500.
If an agency is interested, they’ll likely call within a week or so to set up a meeting. But what, exactly, are they looking for in child models?
“Obviously, the first thing is that they have to be very, very cute,” says Shannon Malloy, the children’s booker for San Francisco’s JE Models, which has worked with Pottery Barn Kids, Gap and Ralph Lauren, to name a few. “The biggest thing after their cuteness factor is their disposition, absolutely. It’s not for every single person. They have to be friendly and outgoing and be able to relate to other people.”
Marla Dell, owner of Marla Dell Talent Agency, agrees. With 21 years of industry experience and clients such as Gymboree, Macy’s and AT&T, she has developed a keen eye for what works in child modeling.
“I can tell when they walk in,” she says. “You have to have that want from the child.”
Each agency’s interview process is different, and, not surprisingly, the situation is similar to that of every parent who has tried to get a child to sit for a portrait. With babies, for example, Dell likes to photograph them with the parent’s permission. Some babies will cry and be clearly uncomfortable with unfamiliar situations. Others will respond with laughter and curiosity.
“When I get that, I know I’ve got a good baby, because if they relate to me, they’ll relate to the photographers,” she says.
Most agencies won’t sign a formal contract with children until they’re 12 years old. Until then, agencies caution that there is no guarantee a child will be chosen by clients.
Depending on what a client is looking for, potential models will be invited to attend a “go-see.” At this audition, they will have their photo taken and reviewed. If selected, they will be notified and a shoot will be booked.
In terms of a “look,” there’s no telling what a client has in mind. In this day and age, clients want children who represent their consumers and are relatable.
“The way advertising is going, it’s more and more about being ‘real,’” says Dell.
Oftentimes, parents are more likely than kids to stress over a photo shoot and feel insulted if their beautiful child isn’t selected. Malloy and Dell often field calls from parents demanding to know why their child wasn’t selected. Clients rarely give an answer.
So, while agencies look for easygoing personalities in children, parents who are flexible, available, on time, patient, willing to wake up early and accommodating to last-minute changes certainly help.
“The best parents are the ones who have the least expectation but the most drive,” Malloy says.
I’m ready for my close-up
Being on short notice is a big part of child modeling. Many parents get calls to attend a shoot anywhere from one day to one hour before the event. It’s what most parents describe as their least-favorite aspect of the business.
“Everything is very, very last minute,” says Cheryl Riley, a San Rafael mom whose 2-year-old daughter has been modeling since she was 7 months old. “You have to pretty much drop everything.”
Often, it has less to do with clients being unorganized as it has to do with families bowing out at the last minute or children who are simply not willing to cooperate that day. Because of that, clients will often hire backup models, rather than push a child to perform.
Once there, a shoot can last anywhere from 15 minutes to four hours, depending on how organized a client is and whether they can get the needed shots. It also depends on the age of the child, since there are laws governing how long they can work at a time. Photo shoots consist of a lot of waiting around, so parents are advised to bring snacks and entertainment.
“It’s definitely stressful in a lot of ways,” says Riley. “It always depends on the moment that (my daughter’s) ready to shoot. And there are moments when she’s not.”
Many parents constantly gauge their children’s interest to see if they’re done with modeling altogether. After driving one-and-a-half hours to the first of a two-day shoot, Riley’s daughter threw a fit and the shoot was postponed.
“At that moment, I thought, maybe this is it for her,” Riley says. The next day, everything was fine and the shoot came to a successful conclusion after 20 minutes. “Once the moment comes that our daughter says she doesn’t want to do it anymore, we’ll pull her.”
In most cases, photographers and production directors are used to working with children and come armed with a hefty amount of patience and understanding.
“The children are never forced to do something they don’t want to do,” says Belmont mom Ali Holdener, whose 15-month-old daughter models. “Everyone is focused on the well-being of the model, on their success, so you can’t lose.”
To ensure a model’s interest is looked after, each photo shoot is required by law to provide a studio teacher. In addition to running interference between directors and overzealous parents, these overseers help entertain the children and ensure each has a valid work permit. These need to be updated every six months and signed off by a child’s school.
“Our main goal is to make sure it’s a pleasurable, fun, non-stressful time for the child,” says Christine Bloomingdale, a state-certified studio teacher from Oakland.
In the entertainment industry, modeling involves the least amount of stress, says Bloomingdale, adding that the Bay Area is “much more mellow and user-friendly.”
With low stress comes less pay, so if you’re hoping your child’s modeling work will pay for that medical degree down the road, think again.
“It rarely pays for itself,” says Lewenthal, adding that childcare costs for other siblings, gas and other expenses can add up.
What’s my motivation?
Children can earn around $100 an hour after an agency takes its share of the proceeds, which is usually 20 percent. While that sounds like a lot, state law limits how many hours a child can work. Plus, one good week can be followed by a dry spell lasting months.
Lewenthal’s agreement with her 4-year-old son is that he can spend 10 percent of his income on anything he’d like, which helps teach him the value of money.
“He tells the cashier, ‘I’m paying for this with the money that I earned.’ And he’s 4!” she laughs.
Another 15 percent goes into a Coogan account, while the rest goes into a savings account for college. A Coogan account is required for minors in the entertainment industry, but not for child models, although parents are encouraged to open one.
Named after child actor Jackie Coogan, the Coogan law was established in 1939 after the famous comedian discovered, at age 21, that the earnings from his youth had been squandered by his parents. Today, the law requires that 15 percent of a child’s income be withheld by an employer and deposited into a blocked trust account to be accessed when the child turns 18.
Money aside, there are other reasons why families enjoy modeling.
For Morgan Hill mom Monique Sadoff, it was her 11-year-old daughter, Samantha, who approached her about modeling four years ago. After a few acting classes at John Robert Powers, she booked her first acting job, flying constantly to Los Angeles.
Eventually, they signed with JE Models for local Bay Area representation. Since then the work has snowballed, with print work for Macy’s and Mervyns among other acting opportunities.
Sadoff stresses that child modeling needs to involve everyone in the family, especially when schedules are changed at the last minute to accommodate photo shoots.
“It’s going to be really disruptive at times,” she says. “There are times that it’s just not going to work, and we have to pass this opportunity up. You don’t say yes to every job.”
So far, the balance has worked out. Better yet, Samantha’s interest in modeling and acting serves as powerful parenting leverage for Sadoff.
“We tell her it’s an opportunity and a privilege. If you give me attitude, you can’t go on auditions,” says Sadoff, adding that her daughter maintains a 4.0 GPA as an honor-roll student.
For Sadoff, modeling is less about looking good than it is about her daughter exploring her talents and learning about herself.
“I think the really positive thing that she’s getting out of this is that she has such a confidence in herself,” Sadoff says. “When she needs to go in for job interviews, she’s going to be ready.”
It’s a given that looks are considered a major “talent” in the modeling industry. And with that comes the inevitable rejection. To head it off, parents suggest meeting rejection with a casual attitude.
“Our rule is you go in and do your best. If you get a call back, awesome, and if not, no big deal. She understands that,” says Sadoff. “It doesn’t mean that you’re not good enough or you don’t have what it takes.”
Dealing with rejection
For parents of infants and toddlers, there’s little need to have “the talk” about rejection.
As a child gets older, some parents limit the information they tell a child.
“I don’t say anything until (a shoot is) booked,” says Lewenthal. “Even on a shoot, sometimes you don’t get in the catalog, and it has nothing to do with the kid. There could be a wrinkle on the clothes.”
Rather than shy away from the topic of rejection, Dell, of Marla Dell Talent Agency, embraces it.
“It’s one of the best things that our business is about,” she says. “When a child goes through life and never has anyone say no to them, they’re learning a false sense of what life is about.”
Besides, rejection in one area can sometimes mean opportunities in others.
Fit modeling is a growing business that can offer steady work for some children, especially if they are on the smaller side and grow slowly.
These children work with pattern makers interested in seeing how clothes fit on a “real” child. While they may not be performing in front of the camera, they are getting a unique perspective on how the fashion industry really works.
Either way, listening to a child’s needs and maintaining that element of fun is essential to making his or her experience as a model successful.
“Do it if you think it’ll be fun and fun for your kids,” says Lewenthal. “And if you feel that it’s becoming too much work, just stop, because there are so many other things you could be doing with your time.”
Millicent Skiles is an associate editor at Bay Area Parent and the mother of two.
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